Bodegas Elias Mora, Gran Elias Mora "La Senda De Los Lobos", Toro

Tightly wound, layered, moderately tannic and oozing excellence, this is a fantastic high-end Toro from the superb 2012 vintage. The minerally, toasty aroma of blackberry is stylish and shows a balsamic note. Flavors of licorice, sweet balsamic vinegar, chocolate and toasty blackberry continue on a long, deep, complex finish. Drink this ace-level red from 2017–2028.

This is an astonishing wine, but not for the faint of heart. It is hugely impressive, with “huge” being the most important element in that clause. Still nearly black in color and opaque in pigmentation at 6 years of age, it is phenomenally rich and concentrated. Aromas of baking spices and subtle woodsmoke are quite appealing, but then the sheer intensity and power of the wine just kick down the door and the wild ride begins. Those who think Tempranillo (or Tinta de Toro, as it is called in this region) just makes light- or medium-bodied wines will be set straight permanently by this bottling, which as actually “thick” in texture, as in milkshake thick. Flavors of blackberries, cassis and black cherry are very intense but not remotely obvious or over-ripe, and though there’s a lot of bracing from oak, the wood accents definitely overwhelmed by the fruit’s sheer strength. You could enjoy this now with decanting and a grilled steak, but it will be better in another 5 years and undoubtedly can hang on or even improve for a full decade from now. What a wine!

Brilliant ruby. Complex, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red fruits, incense, mocha and exotic spices, with a bright mineral overtone. Sweet and incisive on the palate, offering sappy, vivacious raspberry and lavender pastille flavors. In a seamless, graceful style, with a pliant, gently tannic finish emphatically echoing the floral quality. Made from fruit grown in a 70+-year-old vineyard, this wine was aged in new French for 17 months. 2020 – 2026.

The 2012 Gran Elias Mora is pure Tempranillo from a single vineyard planted in the 1970s — a vineyard called Senda del Lobo, which provides very low yields. The wine matured in oak barrels for 17 months, despite which the oak aromas are nicely integrated and folded into the fruit, revealing themselves in the shape of spices and hints of toasted bread. The wine is quite aromatic and expressive, and the palate is medium to full-bodied with some chewy tannins. This is a powerful Toro. 6,000 bottles.

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This single vineyard bottling comes from 80 year old Tinta de Toro vines. Stored for 17 months in French oak barrels, this shows off an inky color once in the glass. Layers of boysenberry cordial, dark chocolate shavings and mocha all come together seamlessly in the glass. Rich and decadent, yet showing beautiful finesse, this is an astonishingly good bottling that has many years to go. Drink 2022-2037.

Inky violet-red in the glass, this wine carries aromas of dark berry preserves, lavender and black pepper. It is spicy at first sip, offering notes of clove and anisette that are joined by flavors of cherry, strawberry and mocha. Rich tannins abound right through the lingering berry finish.

This single-vineyard Tinta de Toro is a benchmark example of the variety’s ageing potential and capacity to preserve freshness and juicy fruit while developing intriguing earthy nuances. Classical yet modern, with ripe black fruit supported by an underlying freshness, prickly liquorice and spicy black pepper. Beautiful herbal lining of wild oregano and balsamico.

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This enticing red’s notes of leather, tar and dried flowers draw you into the glass, with a lively, generous range of blackberry paste, raspberry ganache, red licorice and oolong tea flavors. Rich and expressive but well-structured, this is focused by sinewy tannins and tangy tangerine peel acidity. Chewy on the finish, which echoes hints of loamy earth, cocoa powder and milled white pepper. Drink now through 2035.

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