Domaine du Clos de Tart, La Forge de Tart 2019
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93
Decanter
This wine is blended from parcels at the top of the slope, including Ballonge and La Forge, along with some mid-slope vines planted in 2011. These vines have given a charming, silky wine with great finesse. The aromas are marked by a bit of reduction on the initial attack and then notes of pomegranate and fraises de bois. The texture is supple and discreet, but not lacking in substance. The wine should open well and age for 10-20 years. 4,000 bottles made.
Revisited in bottle, the 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Forge de Tart wafts from the glass with aromas of raspberries, sweet spices, rose petals and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety, with an ample core of fruit, powdery tannins and lively acids, it’s seamless and harmonious, promising a broad drinking window.
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Domaine du Clos de Tart, La Forge de Tart 2021
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93
Decanter
The premier cru ‘Forge de Tart’ is a big step up from the village Morey. More serious fruit intensity on the nose and better density on the palate complement the lively fresh tannins and lingering finish. The 2021 vintage has fruit from the blocks ‘Jeanniard’ and ‘Plantation 2005’ that go into the grand vin in most years. 25% of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters, and 45 – 50% of the casks are new.
The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Forge de Tart derives from a 2011 planting of young vines, complemented by two parcels that are being grafted over to superior genetic material and two blocks on the Bonnes-Mares side that Noli elected to declassify this year. Bursting with aromas of sweet red berries, plums, spices and peonies, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a seamless, enveloping, attractively complete profile. This has turned out very well, reflecting the domaine’s rigorous selection policy more than the challenges of the vintage.
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Domaine du Clos de Tart, La Forge de Tart 2022
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91-93
Burghound
A discreet though not invisible application of wood sets off ripe aromas of black raspberry, violet, rose petal, exotic tea and a hint of spiced plum. There is slightly better energy to the caressing yet powerful and serious medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a dusty, youthfully austere and balanced finale that is firm enough to easily repay a decade plus of keeping. Fine quality here.
The ‘second wine’ of the Clos de Tart demonstrates exceptional quality in 2022, with notes of ripe cassis and blackberry fruit accented by notes of earth and smoke. The texture is concentrated and rich, with powerful tannins and a long finish. The wine is made with younger vines of the Clos from the blocks called Jeanniard and Plantation 2005, along with some older vines coming from clonal selections, although these are now being top-grafted over to massale selection. A quarter of the grapes were fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing in cask (45% new).
The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis La Forge de Tart 1er Cru includes 25% whole bunches and is matured in 45% new oak (mainly Taransaud, St. Martin, François Frères). It has a very floral bouquet with violet and hints of lavender in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and gentle grip, growing quite minerally towards the finish. It stays controlled and linear, with a dash of pepper on the aftertaste, precise and tender on the finish. It will require 4-5 years in barrel.
La Forge 2022 is made from the plantations from 2005 and 2011, both selection massale, plus Ballonge 2 (1984) and La Forge (1999), which are both in clones though these are being top-grafted with massal selections. 45% new wood and 25% whole bunch vinification. An impressively rich deep colour, with a concentrate dark berry fruit. The wine on the palate seems exceptionally youthful and will need much more elevage. Surprisingly black fruit and four square, more reminiscent of Sylvain Pitiot’s wines than I would have expected. The terroir is dominant! Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted: November 2023
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